This winery in Umbria produces stylish wines that are modern, yet still identifiably Italian. If that sounds anachronistic, try to remember the last time you enjoyed a wine but couldn’t really tell where it was from. It probably wasn’t that long ago. Sangiovese stars here, of course, on its own in a wine called Podernovo, blended deliciously with Merlot in a Rosso, or with the additional component of Cabernet Sauvignon in a blend called Princeps. The top of the line bottling is a powerful yet elegant Merlot that should be proof that Italy is producing some of the most interesting wines from this varietal. There's also a crisp, refreshing white to remind us that white wine isn't always an afterthought in Italy. Classy, delicious wines. Prices range from about $13 for the Rosso to $45 for the Merlot. Opici Imports, Glen Rock, N.J. http://www.opiciimports.com/ . www.castellodelleregine.com .