Every now and then it really pays to rummage around in the cellar.

When I first tasted this wine two years ago for my article on New York wines in The San Francisco Chronicle, my reaction was "yeah, nice." But it was outshone by the same winery's Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and especially the Bordeaux blend called 6025. When I found another bottle in my cellar recently I was quickly seduced by charming aromas and flavors of rose petal and guava. Sure, the acidity has faded somewhat, leaving an almost off-dry feel on the palate, but this little beauty is a winner.

Martha Clara is owned by the Entenmann family of bakery fame, and is definitely a Long Island winery to watch.