No doubt you've heard of Michel Rolland, the famous peripatetic "flying winemaker" who consults at more than 100 wineries across the globe and is lauded by his fans as a winemaking genius, even as he's reviled by his detractors for making wines conform to a uniform recipe. One of Rolland's clients is quite close to home, for me - Kluge Estate winery in Virginia. Not content to listen to the gossip, I decided to check out Rolland's work in the Old Dominion for myself, and for
Wines and Vines magazine.
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