AUTHOR: Dave McIntyre TITLE: A Sauvignon World DATE: 10/13/2005 07:23:00 PM ----- BODY:

I love Sauvignon Blanc, a grape that never seems to get the respect it deserves. It lives in the shadow of Chardonnay, king of the market, and grapes such as Riesling that have regal status among wine writers, or grapes such as Gruner Veltliner that catch a trend and become a passing fad. This may be because Sauvignon Blanc lacks an iconic identity that defines the grape. Chardonnay = white Burgundy, Riesling = Germany. Even France is schizo when it comes to SB, with different styles in Loire and Bordeaux. Winemakers working with SB have no model to copy. Of course, this can be great for us, as we can experience the various ways SB can express itself around the world. I hope you'll follow my exploration of "A Sauvignon World" on WineReviewOnline, a new Web site devoted to finding the world's best wines. Two wines that I experienced for the first time in researching this column are from Sauvignon Republic, a new California-based negociant firm that aims to market Sauvignon Blanc from various regions around the world to showcase how it performs in various terroirs. Sauvignon Republic's first two releases are from California and New Zealand, arguably at opposite ends of the SB flavor spectrum. The 2004 Russian River Valley is just a tad high in alcohol, at more than 14%, but unlike many in that range it has fruit to match the heat - mango and creamy papaya flavors and a medium-long finish. The 2004 Marlborough has the grassy-vegetal flavors typical of New Zealand, but it shows admirable restraint in that it doesn't push these characteristics over the top. It also has great texture and body, which add complexity.

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