Labels: Sonoma, Virginia, WineLine
----- -------- AUTHOR: Dave McIntyre TITLE: Wine Camp 2006 DATE: 12/28/2006 10:22:00 PM ----- BODY: Last year I wrote about my family's Christmas ritual, which we call "Wine Camp" - a Stump the Chumps bacchanalia of blind tasting wines from all over the world, especially inexpensive stunners and outré offerings from unusual areas. I always look forward to spending time with Dave Johnson, my sister's husband's sister's husband, who always has some good wines to share. This year's bargain from Dave was Fauna 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand $8, a crisp beauty that avoided going over the top with the ol' grassy-herbals. Not complex by any means, but a great value at the price and good for parties or even as a house white. My ringer this year was Tiger Mountain Vineyards Tannat 2002, from Georgia. No, not "former Soviet" Georgia, our Georgia. Nobody pinpointed the grape or the region, but everyone was impressed by its light, fruity taste and food-friendly body - after enjoying it, we put the rest aside to finish with the Christmas ham! The Tiger Mountain actually was part of an accidental theme this year, as we had more East Coast wines than usual. We enjoyed a Wölffer Pinot Gris 2005 from Long Island ($24), though it was crisp and fruity enough to suggest Italian Pinot Grigio than an Alsatian version. We also had a Pindar 2001 Merlot from Long Island's North Fork, which was a bit heavy with black pepper aromas and flavor, but featured good color, body and just enough fruit to carry it off. Everyone was wowed with the Barboursville Octagon 2004 from Virginia ($40), a Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend. After an unsettling whiff of barnyard blew off (we were not decanting or airing these wines as we should have to do them justice), this developed beautifully and showed what I thought were Bordeaux characteristics. Everyone else stayed in the New World, guessing California or Washington. Both of those states were represented though - with Chateau Ste. Michelle Estate Reserve 1989, from the Columbia Valley, another Cab-Merlot blend that was probably better five years ago but was still showing well; and the Pax Syrah Cuvée Catherine from Sonoma County. This huge, inky blockbuster cemented my conclusion from 2006 (which actually began with last year's Wine Camp and my first taste of Pax, courtesy of Dave Johnson) that Sonoma County is heaven for Syrah. More on that theme in 2007! Cheers, and Happy New Year! Dave McIntyreLabels: New Zealand, Sonoma, tasting notes, Virginia
----- -------- AUTHOR: Dave McIntyre TITLE: Gems from Dry Creek Valley DATE: 9/04/2006 09:51:00 PM ----- BODY: Dry Creek Valley has always been one of my favorite appellations in Sonoma County. I love the intensity and variety of the Sauvignon Blancs and the juicy, chewy depths of its Zinfandels. Last month I had the opportunity to explore Dry Creek Valley and meet with several grape growers and winemakers. Tasting their wines, I made a few discoveries and got reacquainted with some old friends. Here are some labels to look for: RUED: Fifth-generation growers, the Rued family took the plunge into winemaking a few years ago when the “grape glut” pushed prices low. They now boast a spanking new winery on Dry Creek Road just in time for the harvest and of course to welcome visitors. Their 2005 Sauvignon Blanc is fantastic - just grassy enough to show the varietal’s character, with apricot and passion fruit flavors, great body and a long finish. Classic Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2003 Zinfandel is almost as good - creamy in texture and flavor, low on the spice - think raspberry gratin in a glass. Fill in your own pun here, but you will not rue the day you purchase these wines. DUTCHER CROSSING: The 2005 Sauvignon Blanc from this new winery a little further up the road could not be more different than the Rued. Blended with 10% Semillon, 8% Viognier and 2% Roussanne, this version bursts with tropical fruit flavors and aromas. Think of it as a “new California” style. The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Proprietor’s Reserve, which is 25% Syrah, features soft berry flavors, vanillin, and cassis on a medium finish. UNTI VINEYARDS: This young winery is making a serious stab at the leadership mantle of California’s Rhone Rangers. The 2004 Grenache had me thinking of the best of the Southern Rhone, empowered by California exuberance. Then I tasted the 2003 Syrah and my imagination soared to the Northern Rhone. These are not knockoffs of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Hermitage, for they have the California emphasis on fruit flavors, with terroir secondary. (Oooh, I’m gonna get it for that ...) These are California expressions of two wonderful grapes, and they make delicious wines. [Note to readers in the D.C. area - these Unti wines are available at The Vineyard in McLean, Va., for about $29 each.] ALDERBROOK/TERLATO FAMILY VINEYARDS: This winery began in the early 1980s as a specialist in white wines. Within the last few years, however, a majority share was purchased by the Terlato family of Paterno Imports fame. They have steered the winery toward red wines from its property near Healdsburg, at the confluence of the Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley, and Russian River Valley appellations. The 2003 Dry Creek Valley Syrah is surprisingly elegant for the grape, and for the grape in California. It features bright, high-toned blueberry and coffee notes, with soft tannins and a surprisingly long, fruity finish that does not want to quit. I would normally say this is the type of wine that will stand out at dinner but not in a group tasting against bigger, brawnier wines, except that it won a Gold Medal at the Orange County fair. So there are some good judges out there ... Future vintages may be under the Terlato name but will still be made in the same way by winemaker Brian Parker; either way, keep it in mind, this is a delicious wine.Labels: Sonoma, tasting notes
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